Fair Miles?

First it was "free trade versus "fair trade" and now it is "food miles" and "fair miles." This article from across the pond again takes on the issue of whether depriving African vegetable exporters of their only chance for income is justified by the concept of "food miles" and buying food close to home. "Why buying local to cut food miles can do more harm than good."

What is a socially minded consumer to do -- deprive struggling farmers in Africa or buy food that has 10,000 jet-fueled frequent flier food miles in one intercontinental hop from Kenya?